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Hidden Castles and Holy Isles

Highlights of Scotland from Autumn 2021

By Tineke Ziemer

March 3^rd, 2022

I'm not ready...

With only two weeks left of my six month visit to Scotland, I'm facing the inevitable departure with a healthy dose of denial.

I don't wannaaaaaaaaa go!

But unfortunately, my tourist visa expires about the exact moment that my plane lifts off the runway from Glasgow airport, so there is no way around it. Yes, I most certainly did make use of it until the very last possible second.

I've admittedly been spending the least amount of time at my computer possible, and doing as much exploring, living and cuddling with my bf as I can, so my blog posts have taken a back seat to the REAL adventure.

That being said, I do have some amazing photos that have been begging me to share them. So, I thought I'd catch you up on some of my favourite experiences in Scotland since I arrived. The stories would take weeks to share. I've been told by several people here that I ought to write a book. It would certainly be a comedy. This country has kept me loopy, learning and laughing the entire time (and dare I add liquoring?!) Indeed, I could not possibly sum up the hilarity or the chaos without writing a whole novel. So instead, here are some highlights of my journey without the drama.

Stane Castle Seek & Find

I set out one lovely October day on my beautiful Bianchi to go and find Stane Castle in Irvine, which I'd read about online. Google maps said it would take about half an hour to cycle there. The sun was lighting my way as I followed local cycle trails through gorgeous countryside, forests and industrial areas to try and find the castle. Because I was unfamiliar with the area and all the little side trails I had to try and find, it took about an hour before I turned onto the road that would lead me to the "promised land." I was stoked! Only to realize that the road was closed off by massive high fences because a new development was being built! There was no way around, so my only option was to go home or find another route. I spent another hour trying to find my way to the castle on other streets, but when Google maps indicated "you have reached your destination," I couldn't see it for the life of me. haha. Round the neighbourhood I went, made friends with some kids riding a toy car down a hill into an old couch, and eventually, happened to look across the road and OH - there it was! hahaha. Tucked behind some ivy-covered trees, it was patiently awaiting my gaze to finally reach it.

By this time, daylight was fading and I knew I had an hour ride home, so I quickly snapped some photos and got a few facts. Stane Castle Keep, a fortified tower, was built in the 1500s on what is believed to be the site of a former nunnery. It looked quite grand in its enchanted forest, shockingly right on the side of a busy road and seemingly quite forgotten by those who rushed by.

Camera back in bag, google maps engaged to retrace my erratic path, and I was heading back to Troon. I arrived in time for a lovely pale dusky sunset on the beach where I stopped to give my baby a rest and collect some sea glass.

It was an invigorating and satisfying day of castle chasing!

The Allure of Arran

November arrived and I was in need of a week alone to reset. I decided to cycle to the Isle of Arran, which involved 29 miles/46km of cycling, a ferry ride over the Firth of Clyde, and a rescue partway home from my landlord. It was a torrential downpour kind of day and I was soaked from top to bottom just from the first 3 miles.

As with all of my adventures, there were a few bumps in the road. The day I was supposed to leave, I ended up super sick and had to wait and get a covid test, which delayed my trip by a day. The next morning was beautiful and I set off for the six hour journey despite still being quite ill.

The airbnb was located on a dairy farm at the end of the road in Lamlash, with stunning views of the Holy Isle, and a beach to wander and scavenge for hours. Heaven on earth!

On the ferry, seeing the Isle of Arran in the distance

My adorable little airbnb with the most spectacular views

My bedroom for the week. Could it be any cuter?

Sun rising over the Holy Isle, taken from my bedroom patio on my first morning

These morning views from bed could not be beat

I spent my week on Arran walking the peaceful beaches, writing poetry, collecting seashells, and photographing the stunning landscape. I was lost and I was found on these shores.

The road I walked/cycled to and from my airbnb daily

Brodick and Lamlash, the little towns I visited during my stay, were charming and welcoming. I find it so wonderful that dogs are allowed in most cafes and pubs here in Scotland, and there is usually a station with treats and water bowls provided!

My beautiful Bianchi resting again the rail in Brodick on one of my visits

The day I was set to leave, the ferry was cancelled due to a storm. I spent that night hoping my little cottage wouldn't blow away in the fierce winds. The day dawned beautifully and gave me one last chance to walk the farm and the shores before heading home. An extra day was an extra gift!

As I mentioned previously, I set out riding home the next morning in the pouring rain. I used a garbage bag to as a makeshift cover for my backpack during the three mile journey to the ferry. Thankfully, my friend Michael met me on the other side and saved me from another 3 hours cycling in the cold, rainy winter weather.

There are a lot more highlights to come if and when I get around to posting them! haha. I'd love to share more soon, but I'm 100% going to live in the moment for the last two weeks in the UK, spending every second out exploring with my handsome Scottish boyfriend, so don't hold your breath.

One thing I've learned on this trip is to be present. I only have this moment to live in. The memories will keep me company and console me in the next 12 weeks while I countdown to my next visit. I'll revisit my photos and stories when I'm home in Canada and most need them. I'm sure you'll hear all about them then. Thanks for following along.