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i came all this way to see tobermory

But the puffins were pretty cool too

By Tineke Ziemer

July 7^th, 2019

We were up before the crack of dawn on day seven in Scotland, to take an incredible tour out at sea. But just GETTING THERE was an adventure in itself. We travelled by ferry, bus, boat and back again all in one very exhilarating, long day. I had found this tour online over a year earlier, and though most tourists are anxious to see the elusive puffins on Lunga Island, I was excited for the colourful buildings of Tobermory!

sunrise on the ferry

We boarded the ferry in Oban before the sun came up. I found myself on the outside deck, virtually alone, soaking in the peacefulness of the morning. My journal describes it more eloquently:

"I stood on deck and said the Lord's prayer into the deep blue ocean with rays of sunlight streaming down."

And that is where I remained for virtually the entire ferry crossing. Those moments of solitude were food for my soul amidst the busy days of our adventure.

"The quieter you become, the more you can hear."

the wheels on the bus ...don't fit on the road!

The ferry brought us to Craignure on the Isle of Mull. I had no idea until the end of the day when I was looking at postcards in a shop that all referenced the island. I finally asked "where is this Island of Mull I keep hearing about everywhere?" And the lady was like, "This IS the Island of Mull." Oops! So many places in such a short amount of time! Don't ask ME where the heck we were!

In Craignure, we boarded a bus for the drive to Tobermory. Now, we had driven some narrow roads in Scotland prior to this, but NOTHING prepared us for being on a giant coach bus on the narrow seaside roads of the isles. I swear, the tires were on either side of the pavement the whole way. When another vehicle, or heaven forbid - another BUS - came in the opposite direction, well, let's just say, thank God for the narrow passing places along the way, though it still seemed impossible that they could pass safely. The highlight of the bus ride for me, was catching a quick glimpse of an enchanting shipwreck right on the side of the ocean road we were travelling. Some people drive by this every day and, to them, it's completely normal!

It might be worth going all the way back to Scotland just to yell "Stop the bus!" so I can get off and photograph that shipwreck.

morning in tobermory

We arrived in the much anticipated town of Tobermory mid-morning. Unfortunately, I wasn't crazy about the direction of light on the buildings so I didn't get the artsy photos I had been dreaming of. Aw well, I knew we'd be back in the evening to try again. I did, however, turn around and fall in love with the morning light on a small boat tethered at the docks behind me. An artist rarely captures what they had originally planned with any sort of spontaneous affection, and must always keep an eye out for what's behind their back when they are looking at the "view."

"It's not what you look at that matters, it's what you see." - Henry David Thoreau

Round a'boat the islands

By now, we were a few hours into our travels and we were finally at the starting point of the actual tour. The excitement mounted as the Staffa Tours vessel, Islander, arrived at the Tobermory Harbour to pick us up in the misty glow of the morning sun.

It was cold and windy, as spring on the coast of Scotland can only be, but that didn't stop Sherrylynn and I from bundling up with our hoods tightly secured and standing on the top deck for the entire first leg of the journey. One of the first things we spotted was some graffiti on a cliff wall reading "God is Love." When I enthusiastically pointed it out, it sparked a conversation with a lovely bird-watching couple from England who happen share my love for the Lord. I became fast friends with Sue and Paul for the day.

the isle of lunga

An hour and a half later, we landed on an island that appeared completely lifeless. Rocky, barren landscape as far as the eye could see. But high up on those cliffs, puffins were nesting and they were an absolute delight!

A puffin nesting on the cliffs with the Staffa Tours boat beyond

"I'll Follow You to the Ends of the Earth"

Some neat facts about puffins:

They are small seabirds measuring around 25cm in length.
They have a brightly coloured beak during the breeding season. The rest of the year it is grey. Glad we came when we did!
Each year puffins usually only lay one egg, and they usually stay with the same mate throughout their lifetime. Some may have been together for up to 20 years!
They are nicknamed “clowns of the sea“ and after spending an afternoon watching them, I can see why! They are so playful and funny.

We ate our lunch sitting high above the world, looking down on the most gorgeous ocean water you've ever seen. No other soul was on this patch of barren landscape rising bravely out of the ocean, except our little tour group. And all around stretched uninhabited beautiful nothingness. It was a surreal moment, one of those times where you realize how big the world is and how small and seemingly insignificant you are and it makes you stop and think, "Is this really happening? Am I really here?"

I got out my journal right then and there and wrote, my heart so in-tune with God.

"Wherever I go, I know you, oh Lord, are with me. You were here before me, and after me you remain. In all of these places, your presence is larger than the cliffs and the sea, greater than the sun and wind, more permanent than all of it. It is nothing. It is only you. May I be swallowed up in the majesty of who you are. Today. Now. Always."

staffa island & fingal's cave

The next stop on our tour was the incredible world-famous Fingal's cave on Staffa Island. The entire uninhabited island is formed of basalt pillars from volcanic eruptions. It is really too incredible to describe or even capture on camera (especially with harsh midday sun.) You have to see it with your own eyes.

evening in tobermory

From there, we headed back to Tobermory, which proved to be anything but disappointing in the beautiful evening light. I was dead on my feet, but THIS is what I came for!!!! So I made sure to get some good shots before we sat on the wharf and ate some melt-in-your-mouth fish and chips for dinner.

After that, we started our three hour trek back to Oban by bus and ferry. I was so tired that not even the fear of certain death on the narrow roads could keep me from being lulled to sleep by the bus. Sherrylynn snapped a photo of me conked out on my bag.

By the time we got back, it was getting dark. It was a loooooong day, but a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. Thank you for making it all the way through this post and viewing my collection.