10%

The road to applecross

Scotland Day 9 & 10

By Tineke Ziemer

September 18^th, 2019

laying low

So far, this trip had been incredible, jam-packed with so many things to see and do everyday. But I was starting to run out of steam, and unfortunately, when I get run down, I get strep throat. I think it's my body's defense mechanism. "Oh, hold up there, you need a break so I'm gonna hit you with strep! Ha! That'll slow you down!"

Most of the group was keen to keep on trekking, but Sherrylynn and I welcomed a down day to tend to our infected bodies and get some laundry done. We were staying on the Isle of Skye in the most adorable little country cottage, so even though we didn't see much that day, it was one of the best days of the trip for both of us. We had a chance to breathe in the fresh air, soak in the atmosphere of the area, watch the chickens and bunnies running around the yard, hang our laundry outside on the line, and just. be. still.

There is so much healing and beauty in stillness and I had been missing it something fierce. I have incredibly fond memories of walking down this roadway in the sunshine with my dear friend.

The most excitement we had that day came from the giant bee that flew in our window and my undies turning a new colour in the wash! Oh, let's not forget Cheryl and the KETTLE INCIDENT! Despite being sick, we had some good laughs!

these old stones

The next day, we were off again, only this time, Sherrylynn and I got front seats in the van! I hadn't minded being in the back of our 9 passenger vehicle until now, but boy, did the world ever come alive through that big, wide, clear windshield. I could roll my window down and see everything! True to style, it wasn't long before I spotted something that made my heart stop, and consequently, so did the van.

On the side of the road, set back a bit, were the remains of an old stone church covered in vines and ivy. It was a sight for sore eyes (or in this case, throat) and our driver, now being close enough to physically feel my excitement, obliged me. (This was one of the main benefits of being in the front - it was so much easier to convince Ron to stop at obscure sights on the side of the road when us two girls were squealing right in his ear. He may have consented merely to shut us up, but whatever the reason, it worked!)

Lochcarron Old Burial Ground has many pre-1855 stones and the old church itself is circa 1751. (um... wow!!!) This stop was in my top three experiences of the entire trip. I loved meandering through the stones, reading the inscriptions, but the icing on the cake came when I rounded the big stone wall of the church to discover that there were grave stones erected within the old church walls. I have been dreaming of places like this my whole life, but to discover one was truly an enchanting experience.

A birdhouse nestled in the stone walls of the church

My mind was blown when I saw that grave stones had been set up inside the old church walls!

I love the inscription on this gravestone and would be honoured to have my own say the same.

It was a harsh time of day for photography, but the discovery was surreal none-the-less and the memory is what holds true in my mind.

I could have stayed for hours to read all of the headstones. These people lived and breathed and made an impact on the world.

Bealach Na Ba

Also known as "The Road to Applecross," what was originally a drovers road for cattle, is now the steepest ascent of any road climb in the UK. Engineered in 1822, the third highest road in Scotland reaches a height of 2,054 feet above sea level. It is described as being similar to the roads in the mountain passes of the Alps, with tight hairpin turns, switchbacks and gradients that approach 20%.

Aaaaand this was the day we chose to be in the front seat! My heavens! Imagine our delight! Our tires were on either side of this narrow road, with a cliff wall on one side and a drop off on the other. I was thanking my lucky stars that our "chauffeur" is a top notch driving instructor because I sure as heck would never have attempted that drive, especially after seeing the sign warning new drivers and large vehicles not to use this road. Does a nine passenger van count as a large vehicle?! I held my breath more than once, especially because this extremely narrow road has traffic coming BOTH WAYS!

But can I just say, to describe this route as scenic is an understatement. My photos don't do it justice because they were taken from the open passenger window or through the front windshield while we were moving. There was absolutely no way to pull off on Bealach Na Ba, except to tumble to our death.

The sign for the Road to Applecross says it all

The photos don't very well capture how narrow and steep it was, but here is a little taste. Just imagine our van tires on either side of this road and you will get a sense of what our drive was like.

Heading back down the other side. Thrilling as heck and look at that view!

"From the Top of Bealach Na Ba" A panoramic image of the seascape from the top.

the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow

Besides the stunning views and exhilarating drive, there is another reason to take the Road to Applecross, and that is for the adorable little apply-named town on the other side of the mountain pass. Charming, peaceful, quaint and endearing. I left part of my heart in Applecross, not to mention a good chunk of the cash I was carrying in my wallet. We found the BEST little gift shop (called The Coal Shed) with darling hand-crafted items. I spent a small fortune on art and gifts to bring home to my loved ones (and myself!)

Frolicking on the sandy shores of this sea-fed loch

"Treasure Seeking" for seashells, sea glass and pretty stones

We found many more treasures inside this charming shop. Be sure to stop if you ever visit Applecross.

love the journey

Carrying on our merry way, our next stop was Torridon for ice cream and a walk. The serenity of the area is what I took with me from that brief encounter. I still feel it now looking at these images.

"Love the Journey" The girls photographing the aquamarine waters of Loch Torridon.

Our final destination that day would be the much-anticipated Inverness, but that is for another post. Stay tuned! And if you have a coupon for a free 8x12 art print, don't forget that you may use it for any Scotland photograph that catches your eye. Thanks for reading!